Facts at a Glance

Full country name: The Islamic Republic of Iran
Area: 1,648,000 sq km (642,720 sq mi)
Population: 70 million
Capital city: Tehran (pop 10.5 million)
People: Persian (Farsis) (65%), Azari (25%), Arab (4%), Lors (2%), Turkmen (2%), Kurdish, Armenian, Jewish
Language: Persian
Religion: Muslim
Government: Islamic Republic
Spiritual leader: Ayatollah Sayyed Ali Khamenei
President: Mohammed Khatami

 Iran: The Ancient Land of Persia

Although today the country is known as Iran, until 1921 it was by the world as Persia. This magnificent country is bounded by two very rich bodies of water - the Persian Gulf and the Caspian Sea. Iran offers climates and environments to satisfy the myriad tastes of any and all travelers. At any given time the climate in different regions of the country may differ by as much as 100 degrees Fahrenheit and the environmental vistas range from golden desserts to lush tropical gardens. Iran has been the seat of civilization. It has contributed immeasurable achievements in poetry, art, architecture, science and most notably history. A number of Iranian's have etched their names in the annals of history; Darius, Omar Khayyam, Hafiz, Saadi, Shamsh Tabriz, Attar, Ibn Sina, Xerxes, Rustam, Cyrus the Great, and Alexander the Great to name a few. Each of these great achievers made significant contributions, which affect the way the modern world is viewed. Throughout ancient times, Iran was a jewel sought after by many empires. It has been conquered and ruled by the Assyrians, Babylonians, Medes, Persians, Greeks, Parthians, Sassanians, Arabs, Turkish Seijuks, Turkish Mongols, Turkish Safavids, Turkish Qajars, Russians, British, and most recently Islamic. Each of these empires has left indelible brush strokes on the canvas, which is now Iran. Today, there are over 65 million people in Iran. While over half of those live in urban areas, there are about one quarter of a million who still maintain a nomadic existence. In addition, nearly half of Iran's population is under the age of 17 years old. Thus, Iran's future appears bright indeed. Though recent political events in Iran have dampened tourist enthusiasm, tours to the country in the past two years have proven that Iran is happy and eager to welcome American tourists to their home. Recent travelers have stated that every person they came into contact with was most friendly and eager to share their culture. In short, Iran is a cultural feast, which is not to be missed. Wish you an educational and enjoyable trip. We strive to cater to your needs.

The Islamic Republic of Iran is bordered to the north by the states of Armenia, Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan (all formerly of the USSR) and the Caspian Sea; to the east by Afghanistan and Pakistan; to the south by the Gulf of Oman and the Persian Gulf; and to the west by Iraq and Turkey. Iran is about one-fifth the size of the USA and nearly as big as Queensland, Australia. The country is dominated by three mountain ranges: the fertile, volcanic Sabalan and Talesh ranges in the north-west; the very long, Jurassic-era Zagros range, down the western border; and the dominant Alborz range, home of Iran's highest mountain, the permanently snowcapped Damavand (5670m/18,600ft), to the north of Tehran. The two great Iranian deserts, the Dasht-é Kavir (more than 200,000 sq km/78,000 sq mi) and the Dasht-é Lut (more than 166,000 sq km/64,740 sq mi), occupy most of the north-east and east of the central plain.

Massive, unrestrained urban and industrial development and the Iran-Iraq War have caused irreparable environmental damage, particularly on the southern slopes of the Alborz range, along the Caspian Sea and around the Persian Gulf. To its credit, the Iranian government has created a few national parks, but the warm glow dissipates once you realise the parks have no fenced areas or rangers. The northern slopes of the Alborz are densely covered with deciduous trees, forming the largest area of vegetation in Iran. There are some lovely pockets of forest around Khalkhal, south of Ardabil, and at Nahar Khoran, just south of Gorgan. Mammals such as the wolf, jackal, wild boar, hyena, black bear and lynx are common in the unexplored depths of the forests of Mazandaran province. In the deserts and mountains you're more likely to come across the more sedate Persian squirrel and mongoose, galloping Persian gazelle, porcupine, badger and endemic Iranian wild ass. Two of the more fascinating creatures are the huge Alborz red sheep, with its black beard and spiralling horns, and the Oreal ram, with a white beard and enormous horns.

Because of its size, variety of topography and altitude, Iran experiences great extremes of climate. Winters (December to February) can be unpleasantly cold in most parts of the country, while in summer (June to August) temperatures as high as 40°C (104°F) are nothing out of the ordinary. Regular rainfall is more or less restricted to the far north and west - generally also the coldest parts of Iran.

The first distinct people to emerge on the Iranian plateau were probably the Elamites, who established a city at Shush in the far south-west. The Aryans came to the region in the second millennium BC, bringing with them some agricultural and domestic skills. It wasn't until the middle of the 6th century BC, when the Achaemenian king Cyrus the Great ruled the region, that Persian history was documented. The Achaemenian Dynasty is recognised as the founder of the Persian Empire, leading to the eventual creation of Iran.

In the 4th century BC Alexander the Great invaded Persia after conquering most of Greece, Egypt, Turkey and Iraq. Despite three conciliatory offers from Darius III for a negotiated peace, Alexander entered Shush. From there, he took some time to cross the mountains to the east, but eventually entered Persepolis. After Alexander's death in 323 BC, the empire was divided into three squabbling dynasties, with Persia controlled by the Macedonian Seleucids. But the Seleucids had problems controlling the numerous feisty ethnic minorities, in particular the nomadic Parthians who came to control most of Persia until the 3rd century AD. The Sassanians came from the central regions of Persia not under direct control of the Parthians. They were an industrious Zoroastrian gang who promoted urban development and encouraged trade, but who eventually set to squabbling and were overrun by the Arabs in 637.

The Arabs ruled until 1050, converting most of the population to Islam and introducing the Persian language and culture. They were brought down by a Turkish dynasty, which captured Esfahan in 1051. Despite numerous rebellions, the Turks hung onto power until they were swept clean away by Genghis Khan's rampaging Mongols in the early 13th century. When the Mongols ran out of leaders in the late 14th century, the Timurid Dynasty filled the breach, but was then pressured by Turkmen tribes, Ottoman Turks and European colonialists such as Portugal.

The ensuing Safavid Dynasty (1502-1722) was one of the great Persian empires. The brilliant Shah Abbas I and his successors enshrined Shi'ism and rebuilt Esfahan, but the dynasty's decline was hastened by Afghan invasions in the early 18th century. The Afghans couldn't hold power and Iran was ruled by a succession of variously mad, bad and benevolent rulers until the bitter and twisted eunuch, Agha Muhammed Khan, united the Turkish Ghajars in 1779 and went on to establish a capital in Tehran. The Ghajar kings ruled a relatively peaceful Iran until 1921, managing to remain neutral during WWI, but were not able to prevent a partial occupation by British forces keen to ensure a constant supply of oil.

One of the last Ghajar kings introduced the idea of elections and a legislative assembly (called the Majlis), but it wasn't until the charismatic Persian Reza Khan came along in 1923 that the idea stuck. Reza became prime minister, and commenced the huge task of dragging the country into the 20th century. Iran (the name was officially adopted in 1934) was again neutral during WWII but Britain and Russia established spheres of influence there to shut out Germany. In 1941, Reza was forced into exile in South Africa and his son, Mohammed Reza, succeeded him. After the war, the USA helped persuade the Russians to leave, the young Shah regained absolute power and Iran became firmly aligned with the West.

Over the next 30 years, there was a build up of resistance to the Shah's regime of repression and modernisation. As the economy went from bad to worse under the Shah's post oil-boom mismanagement, the growing opposition made its presence felt with sabotage and massive demonstrations. The Shah's responses became increasingly desperate and brutal, US support wavered, and he finally fled on 16 January 1979. A couple of weeks later, the acknowledged leader of the Shah's opponents, Ayatollah Khomeini, returned from exile to be greeted by adoring millions. The Ayatollah's fiery brand of nationalism and Islamic fundamentalism led to the efficient establishment of a clergy-dominated Islamic Republic.

Not long after the Ayatollah was proclaimed Emam (leader), Iraqi President Saddam Hussein made an opportunistic land grab in Khuzestan province. It was a disastrous move, embroiling the two countries in a hideous war that killed hundreds of thousands before an unsatisfactory ceasefire was negotiated in 1988. The western powers and the USSR supported Iraq, using 'lesser of two evils' logic, and weapons were only sold to Iran at vastly inflated prices.

On 4 June 1989, Ayatollah Khomeini died, leaving an uncertain legacy. Two months later Hojjat-ol-Eslam Rafsanjani was elected president, a post which had previously been largely ceremonial, and Khomeini's position as Supreme Leader was taken by the former president, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei. Following the 1997 landslide election of a moderate Iranian president, Hojjat-ol-Eslam Seyed Mohammed Khatami, many hoped that relations with the rest of the world would improve.

Khatami's election prompted many women voters and young people, to whom the rapture at the coming of the Islamic Revolution was mere hearsay, to hope the Islamic Republic's strictest impositions would be relaxed. As things stand, very little political opposition is tolerated.

GDP: US$390 billion
GDP per head: US$5570
Annual growth: 4.2%
Inflation: 19%
Major industries: Oil, gas, agriculture, carpets
Major trading partners: Japan, Germany, France, Italy, United Kingdom, United Arab Emirates

Just about everything that can close will close on a religious holiday, so it's important to know when they fall. Iran's religious holidays follow the Muslim lunar calendar, so the dates according to the western calendar vary each year. Major events include Ramadan, the month of dawn to dusk fasting; Eid-é Fetr, the one day festival of feasting that marks the end of Ramadan; Ghadir-é Khom, which commemorates the day that the Prophet Mohammed appointed Emam Ali his successor; and the birthday of Mohammed.

National holidays follow the Persian solar calendar, but still usually fall on the same day each year according to the western calendar. The big bangers include the lustily titled Magnificent Victory of the Islamic Revolution of Iran on 11 February, which is the anniversary of Khomeini's coming to power in 1979; the enthusiastically celebrated No Ruz or Iranian New Year (21 to 24 March);

Tehran

Iran is not blessed with one of the world's loveliest capitals. Pollution, chronic overcrowding and a lack of responsible planning have all helped to make Tehran a metropolis that even the most effusive travel agent would have difficulty praising. If you're expecting an exotic crossroads steeped in oriental splendour, you'll be sadly disappointed. The distances are vast, the traffic is shockingly bad and the main sights are spread out. However, the hotels are good, the variety of restaurants is impressive, the facilities are far ahead of those anywhere in the provinces, and the Tehranis are friendly. The major attraction for visitors is the city's excellent museums.

Human settlement of the region dates from Neolithic times, but the development of Tehran was very slow and its rise to prominence largely accidental. From the mid-16th century, Tehran's attractive natural setting and good hunting brought it into the favour of the Safavid kings. It developed from a moderately prosperous trading village into an elegant, if dusty, city, and European visitors wrote of its many enchanting vineyards and gardens. In 1789, Agha Muhammed Khan declared Tehran his capital, and six years later had himself crowned as Shah of all Persia. The town continued to grow slowly under later Ghajar rulers.

From the early 1920s, the city was extensively modernised on a grid system, and this period marked the start of phenomenal population growth and uncontrolled urban development that continues to this day. Today Tehran is so vast that getting hopelessly lost at least once is a near certainty, no matter what form of transport you take. If you need landmarks, the Alborz mountains, known as the 'North Star' of Tehran, are to the north; and the huge telephone office at Emam Khomeini Square dominates inner southern Tehran.

The National Museum of Iran houses a marvellous collection including ceramics, stone figures and carvings dating from around the 5th millenium BC. Many of the relics are taken from excavations at Persepolis, Shush, Rey and Turang Tappé and will probably mean more to you if you come here after you've visited the archaeological sites. The Glass & Ceramics Museum is one of the most impressive in Tehran, not only for its professionally organised exhibits, but also for the building itself. The Reza Abbasis Museum, another stunner, contains examples of Islamic painting, pottery and jewellery. The National Palace (White) Museum used to be the last Shah's palace and is now a complex of museums.

Tehran's best non-museum sight is the haphazard bazaar, so big it's practically a separate city. Also worth a look are the busy Emam Khomeini Mosque, the drab Armenian Sarkis Cathedral, and the city's parks and gardens.

Persepolis

Persepolis, the Throne of Jamshid, was a massive and magnificent palace complex built from about 512 BC and completed over the next 150 years. Persepolis was burnt to the ground during Alexander the Great's time, in 331 BC, although historians are divided about whether it was accidental or in retaliation for the destruction of Athens by Xerxes. The ruins you see today are a mere shadow of Persepolis' former glory, but you can still get a great idea of its majesty if you carry a map and use a bit of imagination. Incredibly the whole site was covered with dust, earth and the sands of time before being rediscovered in the early 1930s.

Esfahan

The cool blue tiles of Esfahan's Islamic buildings, and the city's majestic bridges, contrast perfectly with the hot, dry Iranian countryside around it: Esfahan is a sight you won't forget. Not only is the architecture superb and the climate pleasant, but there's a fairly relaxed atmosphere here, compared with many other Iranian towns. It's a city for walking, getting lost in the bazaar, dozing in beautiful gardens and meeting people.

The famous half-rhyme Esfahan nesf-é jahan (Esfahan is half the world) was coined in the 16th century to express the city's grandeur. There's so much to see that you'll probably have to ration your time and concentrate on must-sees such as the Emam Mosque, a magnificent building completely covered in Esfahan's trademark pale blue tiles; Emam Khomeini Square, one of the largest town squares in the world; the Chehel Sotun Museum & Park, a marvellous 17th century pavilion and a great place for a picnic; and the Vank Cathedral, the historic focal point of the Armenian church in Iran. Taking tea in one of the teahouses under the bridges is also an essential part of the Esfahan experience.

Shiraz

Shiraz was one of the most important cities in the medieval Islamic world and was the Iranian capital during the Zand dynasty (1747-79), when many of its most beautiful buildings were built or restored. Through its many artists and scholars, Shiraz has been synonymous with learning, nightingales, poetry, roses and, at one time, wine.

Today Shiraz is a relaxed, cultivated city, with wide tree-lined avenues and enough monuments, gardens and mosques to keep most visitors happy for several days. The university here is one of Iran's finest, and you'll come across lots of students eager to speak English. Highlights include the restful tomb and garden of Hafez, a celebrated poet; the Shah-Cheragh mausoleum, an important Shi'ite place of pilgrimage which attracts hordes of supplicants; the Pars Museum, which contains Zand dynasty relics; and the delightful Eram garden, where the 19th century Ghajar palace lies alongside a pretty pool.

Bam

Bam is a pleasant town where the eucalypts are likely to make any Aussie homesick, and the date palms clearly indicate a desert oasis. But it's the incredible ancient city which makes Bam truly special. Although some of the surviving structures must have been built before the 12th century, most of what remains dates from the Safavid period (1502-1722). Up to 13,000 people once lived in this 6 sq km (2 sq mi) city until it was abandoned following an Afghan invasion in 1722. The city was abandoned again in about 1810 after bloodthirsty invaders from Shiraz popped in, and then was used as an army barracks until the 1930s. It is now completely deserted.

Numerous steep and narrow stairways lead to the pinnacles of the outer clay wall which almost circles the entire city. From the wall you can see the curved ice house, which housed enormous chunks of ice in winter, melting to become drinking water in summer. The inner citadel dominated the town - the extraordinary echo in the garrison is thought to be a deliberate, ancient loudspeaker system.

Bam is in south-eastern Iran. The bus from Tehran, 1260km (780mi) away, takes about 21 hours, so you might consider flying. There are two flights a week between Tehran and Bam, and more frequent flights between Tehran and Kerman, which is about three hours north-west of Bam by bus or shared taxi.

Gombad-é Kavus

Gombad-é Kavus is a spectacular tomb tower, a stunning memorial to the remarkable Ghabus (of which 'Kavus' is a corruption), a prince, poet, scholar, general and patron of the arts. He ruled the surrounding region at the turn of the 11th century and decided to build a monument to last forever. The 55m (180ft) tower was completed in 1006, six years before Ghabus was slain by an assassin.

Chogha Zambil

Alongside the Dez River, the remarkably well-preserved ziggurat of Chogha Zambil is the best surviving example of Elamite architecture anywhere, and it has now been registered with UNESCO. Originally it had five concentric storeys but only three remain, reaching a total height of some 25m (82ft). It's hard to believe that such an imposing landmark was lost to the world for more than 2500 years, which it was until being accidentally spotted in 1935 during an oil company's aerial survey.

Masulé

Of all the traditional and unspoiled mountain villages in the Caspian Province of Gilan, Masulé rates as the most breathtakingly beautiful. It's a cool 1050m (3444ft) above sea level and, formed by several irregular levels of terraced cream houses, appears to have grown out of its surroundings. So steep is the slope that there isn't even a network of alleys - instead the flat roofs of many houses form a pathway for the level above.

Ali Sadr Caves

If you reckon seeing another mosque, archaeological site or museum will have you retching, take a detour to these remarkable caves, about 100km (62mi) north of Hamadan in western Iran. The caves, discovered only 40 years ago by a local shepherd looking for a lost goat, are up to 40m (130ft) high, and contain several huge, deep lakes. Nothing lives in the clear water - bats don't even hang around here - and there are no signs of any previous inhabitants. Frequent minibuses travel between Ali Sadr village and Hamadan, which is in turn accessible by bus from Tehran, 336km (208mi) to the north-east.